Tuesday, January 23, 2007

pattern to pleated body

Ok specially for Julie but also so I can log how I get on.
The pattern for half the body is a full width of fabric and only just fits on my table. It comes from Janet Arnolds book.

We have now tested it with the lining, adapted the arm hole to be a little more modern ie less tight and pulling the arms back as I don't think the person who it is for is ready for that amount of historical accuracy and isn't going to be wearing a full corset with a narrow back to force her shoulders back.

Pleating up the main fabric and lining was a long job and I was very glad to have a helper on this. We have finished the body and sleves are ready to go on in the morning. Just deciding on type of flounce for the elbow.

Ordered boning for pocket hoops and bodice as well


Julie said...

Those pattern pieces do look big and I don't envy you having to pleat them up.

Once they were in, how did you secure the pleats? When I've done skirts which have three widths of fabric into a waistband and ended up sewing them by hand (ouch!) because I couldn't put them through a standard domestic sewing machine.

Marina said...

That's very beautiful fabric. I'm still pondering what kind of fabric to buy for the Caraco.

Esther said...

Domestic sewing machine? Don't be daft the beast is back out fo mothballs!

Actually the sides are pleated to the middle and by the time you have finished you just have the side seam to sew up on the bodice. The only thick bit is the pleats at the waist which need catching to each other but not sewing through if that makes sense. In the original they just float free inside.

The pleats across the back do need sewing down across the shoulders and a facing adding but it isn't that bad and went through the machine. The fabric is a syntentic and quite light.. yes you heard that right I'm using a synthetic just don't tell everyone. Real silk with a design like that was just impossible and this is roleplay kit not re-enactment (bet you never expected to hear me say that!). The lining is a light weight cotton and only goes in the skirt at the back so the top of the shoulders is only the main fabric.

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